Cathedrals of Saintonge (part 1)
With its strong religious tradition, the Kingdom of Saintonge boasts of numerous historic cathedrals. Almost all of the cathedrals of Saintonge were built before the 20
th century: the most recent cathedrals erected were that of Villeurbanne (1969) and Lanthenay (1999). Most of the cathedrals date back centuries.
As such, many have become tourist attractions themselves, as historical buildings and architectural wonders. In this list are the most beautiful and famous cathedrals of Saintonge:
Saintes: National Basilica of Our Lady of Saintonge
Saintes
National Basilica of Our Lady of Saintonge
Basilique Nationale de Notre-Dame de Saintonge
The seat of the Santonian National Church, the Cathedral of Saintes is the Santonian pope’s own archdiocese. The Cathedral of Saintes is one of the finest examples of Santonian Gothic architecture, with numerous rose windows and beautiful sculptural decoration that were all restored after nobles blew up the cathedral in 1789. It has one of the world's largest organs (restored after 1789) and the largest church bells (recovered after the bombing), the peals of which is said to be audible throughout the city of Saintes.
The cathedral of Saintes is located in the
île de la Cité, in the middle of the Saine river, sharing the island with the patriarchal palace, the royal palace, and large parks. The Cathedral of Saintes should not be missed if one is visiting the
île de la Cité.
Loudun: Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption
Loudun
Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption
Cathédrale de Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption de Loudun
The cathedral of Loudun stands out from the surrounding city because of its distinctive colour: black. Nicknamed
Cathédrale Noire (Black Cathedral), this landmark cathedral is made from black lava stone and is visible from a great distance because of its colour and tall spires.
The Cathedral was desecrated by the Duke of the Sologne during the Santonian Revolution. The Duke held a “Black Mass in the Black Cathedral”, after publicly crucifying the Bishop of Loudun in front of the Cathedral. The Cathedral was reconsecrated after the Revolution.
Bicêtre: Cathedral of Our Lady of Grace
Bicêtre
Cathedral of Our Lady of Grace
Cathédrale de Notre-Dame-de-Grâce de Bicêtre
Bicêtre is the Saine-et-Loine’s cathedral town (but the departmental capital is nearby Surgères). This Gothic and Romanesque cathedral, constructed between 1174 and 1230, was famous for the
culte des charrettes (“Cult of the Carts”), during which lay people and penitents brought cartloads of building materials for the cathedral and helped build the structure. The Cathedral of Bicêtre, having escaped unscathed throughout the many wars in Saintonge (mainly because Bicêtre was not a fortified town, unlike Surgères), is one the best preserved for its age: the majority of the original stained-glass windows survive intact.
Rhêmes: Cathedral of Saint Roch
Rhêmes
Cathedral of Saint Roch
Cathédrale de Saint-Roch de Rhêmes
One of the smallest cathedrals in Saintonge, the cathedral of Rhêmes sits atop a rock in the centre of town. Geologically, the rock is a volcanic plug, and its position affords it a good view of the surrounding plains in the lower Vercors.
The cathedral is officially dedicated to Saint Roch (a coincidence that it sits atop a rock -
roche in Santonian). Because the small cathedral is no longer able to accommodate the town’s growth (and the hundreds of steps to climb to reach the cathedral means it is not easily accessible), almost all of the episcopal services and offices are in the much larger
Église de Saint-Matthieu (Church of Saint Matthew) below the rock.
Provins: Cathedral of Saint Thibault
Provins
Cathedral of Saint Thibault
Cathédrale de Saint-Thibault de Provins
The cousin of the cathedrals of Saintes and Bicêtre, the cathedral of Provins suffered damage during the Siege of Provins during the Santonian Revolution. However, the cathedral was restored to its Gothic glory in the subsequent decades. The Cathedral of Provins is also richly decorated with statues, competing with the cathedrals of Saintes and Bicêtre in terms of number of sculptures. It has now become a tourist stop in the city of Provins, which lies astride major railway lines in the Saine valley.
Torcy-le-Grand: Basilica of the Martyrs of the Revolution
Torcy-le-Grand
Basilica of the Martyrs of the Revolution
Basilique des Martyrs-de-la-Révolution
The diocese of Torcy-le-Grand was erected in 1870 from parts of the Archdiocese of Aix-en-Aunis and Diocese of Jarrie. As the centenary of the Santonian Revolution was nearing, a decision was made to build a cathedral for Torcy-le-Grand and dedicate it to the martyrs and devout people who died during the Santonian Revolution.
The former battlefield at Torcy-le-Grand was chosen as the site of the cathedral/basilica. The main church was finished in time for the centenary of the Battle of Torcy-le-Grand. The entirety of the basilica was finished in 1890.
The crypts of the cathedral also served as the ossuary for the battlefield dead. History tours are also available, celebrating both the basilica and the battle fought on the site.
Plaisance: Basilica of Saint-Brice
Plaisance
Basilica of Saint Brice
Basilique de Saint-Brice de Plaisance
If Loudun has the Black Cathedral, Plaisance has the White Cathedral, although the edifice is properly called a basilica. This grand archepiscopal basilica is made from stone from the Nébrodes mountains. Its construction was spurred by Duke Ardouin III of the Pouilles and Archbishop Pierre-Paul Pinnellièrre of Plaisance in 1874 and finished in 1886. Built on a hill above the city, it looms impressively over the city of Plaisance, the surrounding plains, and the sea. It has become a symbol of the city and a popular tourist spot.
The White Cathedral replaces the old cathedral of Plaisance, which is in itself impressive because of its tall spires.
Embrun: Cathedral of Our Lady of Perpetual Succour
Embrun
Cathedral of Our Lady of Perpetual Succour
Cathédrale de Notre-Dame-du-Perpétuel-Sucours d’Embrun
The cathedral of Embrun, the archepiscopal seat in the province of the Griffonné, is one of the tallest churches in Saintonge. Its 151-metre-high spire, finished in 1876, made it Saintonge’s tallest structure for several decades before the
Tour Imperial skyscraper was finished in Saintes’ business district in 1930.
The spires were rebuilt in the 1870s after being struck by lightning. These pre-1870 spires were also the tallest in Saintonge. The cathedral’s predilection for tall spires made it an ideal target for lightning strikes – to the point that it was called
cathédrale des foudres (“cathedral of lightning”). Historical records show that the Cathedral of Embrun was struck by lightning in 1110, 1284, 1377, 1514, 1625, 1642, 1786, 1822, and 1865. Each time, the spires were built higher than the previous one. After the last lightning strike in 1865, the Archbishop of Embrun took notice and adopted the
paratonnerre (“lightning rod”) technology pioneered in Plaisance in 1748.
Novale: Cathedral of Our Lady of Peace
Novale
Cathedral of Our Lady of Peace
Cathédrale de Notre-Dame-de-la-Paix de Novale
The cathedral of Novale is one of the more recently-built cathedrals in Saintonge, built from 1852 to 1896. The old cathedral of Novale was set on fire by the Duke of the Novalais during the Santonian Revolution, along with his enemies who claimed sanctuary inside the cathedral. The weakened structure collapsed months later. The episcopal seat then temporarily moved to the
Église de Saint-Colomban.
After a three-decade funding campaign, the Bishops of Novale rebuilt it in a Revival style on the same location. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Queen of Peace, in 1896.
Nyon: Cathedral of Saint Mary Major
Nyon
Cathedral of Saint Mary Major
Cathédrale de Sainte-Marie-Majeure de Nyon
Saintonge’s second-largest city of Nyon also houses its second-largest church. Because of its large size, it took more than two centuries to ‘complete’: 1386 – 1599. It was consecrated in 1600 by the Pope of the Santonian National Church himself. The church is the pride of Nyon; the city’s inhabitants will mention the cathedral as one of the top tourist destinations in the city.
Sancoins: Basilica of Our Lady of the Guard
Sancoins
Basilica of Our Lady of the Guard
Basilique de la Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde de Sancoins
The first in the quartet of Saintonge’s 19
th century basilica-building spree (Sancoins, Torcy-le-Grand, Plaisance, Villeurbanne), the Basilica of Sancoins was built for the archdiocese of Sancoins (newly elevated from a diocese to an archdiocese). Constructed starting in 1852, it was built on top of an ancient fort at the highest natural point in Sancoins, a 149 m limestone outcropping on the west side of the
Baie de la Saine. The old fort used to guard the entrance to the bay and served as a lookout point. The fort (and now the basilica), served as a landmark for ships.
The basilica was also popular with sailors, with sailors who survived shipwrecks gave thanks at the basilica. The Basilica at Sancoins is also the mother church for the First Fleet of the Royal Santonian Navy, headquartered in nearby Bay of Saine Naval Base.
Coire: ruins of the old Cathedral (left/top), Cathedral of Saint Tobias (right/bottom)
Coire
Cathedral of Saint Tobias
Cathédrale de Saint-Tobie-de-Prydanie de Coire
The Cathedral of Coire is one of the few Santonian cathedrals with a significant amount of foreign influence. In the 13
th century, the cult of the Prydanian Saint-King Tobias reached Saintonge, brought by mariners and immigrants from Prydania. As Coire was then a bustling port city, they built the Prydanian Seamen’s Church (
Église des marins prydaniens/
Prydansk sjómannakirkja) dedicated to their country’s saint. The wealthy mariners built their gothic church close to the waterfront. With its 80-meter-tall spires, it was an easily recognisable landmark, welcoming visitors to the city. When the Kingdom of Saintonge closed most of its ports (including Coire) to foreigners in 1466, the Prydanian Seamen’s Church became a parish church, but retained its patron saint (
Église de Saint-Tobie-de-Prydanie).
Coire had its own, larger cathedral in the centre of the old town, dedicated to Saint Peter, built in the 8
th century. During the Santonian Revolution, this cathedral (
vieille cathédrale de Saint-Pierre de Coire) was set on fire and blown up with the Bishop of Coire and 100 priests and nuns inside, on orders of the Duke of the Soleure. It was not rebuilt after the Revolution. The new Bishop of Coire then chose the largest remaining church in the city,
Église de Saint-Tobie-de-Prydanie, as the episcopal seat.
Cantorbéry: Cathedral of Saint Thomas
Cantorbéry
Cathedral of Saint Thomas
Cathédrale de Saint-Thomas de Cantorbéry
The cathedral in the Domnonée city of Cantorbéry is dedicated to Saint Thomas of Cantorbéry. It was built as atonement by King Henri II of Saintonge. King Henri II of Saintonge had been seeking an annulment of his marriage with Queen Hélène of Saintonge. Bishop Thomas of Cantorbéry publicly admonished the monarch and wrote to the Pope in Sion urging him to decline the application of King Henri II of Saintonge for an annulment.
The king, infuriated, had his agents assassinate the Bishop of Cantorbéry in 1119, prompting the Pope to announce an interdict on Saintonge the following year. As part of his penance, King Henri II of Saintonge had to build a cathedral for the newly-canonised saint. The Cathedral of Cantorbéry was started in 1125 and finished by King Charles II in 1210.
Bâle: Cathedral of Saint Peter
Bâle
Cathedral of Saint Peter
Cathédrale de Saint-Pierre de Bâle
The Cathedral of Bâle took one of the longest time to finish, constructed from 1434 to 1891. While the basis of the architectural plan is Gothic, the influence of the various architectural styles can be found in the Cathedral of Bâle.
Redon: Cathedral of Saint Caël
Redon
Cathedral of Saint Caël
Cathédrale de Saint-Caël de Redon
Of all the saints to which Santonian cathedrals are dedicated to, the one for the Cathedral of Redon in the province of Bethany is probably the most obscure. Redon’s cathedral is dedicated to Saint Caël / Caelius. Saint Caël is sometimes translated to Mercanti as Saint Kyle, conflating it with the origins of
the well-known sausage produced around Redon – however, the Santonian pronunciation of the two names are markedly different.
This 13
th century cathedral with an 80-metre tall spire is, much like the Basilica of Our Lady of the Guard in Sancoins, a navigational landmark in the Bay of the Saine. The cathedral also houses an unusual relic: the shrunken head of Saint Caël (who was a missionary), who was martyred by headhunter tribes during the 6
th century in what is present-day Bashime.
Jarrie: Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception
Jarrie
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception
Cathédrale de l'Immaculée-Conception de Jarrie
If Loudun has the black cathedral and Plaisance has the white one, Jarrie has the pink cathedral. Built in 1884 – 1901 as the new cathedral for the diocese of Jarrie, this neo-Gothic cathedral is the third-largest in Saintonge.
Because of its moniker “Pink Cathedral”, this church has become popular for LGBT couples to have their partnerships blessed. Such ceremonies are technically not sacramental, nevertheless the liberal Bishop Jacques-Paul Gaillot of Jarrie not only tolerated, but even encouraged same-sex couples to come and have their partnerships blessed.
Brive: Cathedral of Saint Gérard
Brive
Cathedral of Saint Gérard
Cathédrale de Saint-Gérard de Brive
After being blown up by the Duke of Bordulac during the Santonian Revolution, the Cathedral of Brive was rebuilt in 1810 to 1845. Because of the extensive damage, only the 12
th century bell tower and crypt were largely intact. The architect, Paul-Achille Labadie, was influenced by foreign architecture. The cathedral has a symmetric cross-shaped floor plan with five domes, giving it an ‘oriental’ look. The domes, though, are closed to the public.
Creusenac: Cathedral of Saint Expeditus
Creusenac
Cathedral of Saint Expeditus
Cathédrale de Saint-Expédit de Creusenac
Associations abound in the cathedral of Creusenac. This 13th century cathedral was dedicated to Saint Expeditus, the patron saint of time. According to popular legend, in the 13th century, a chest with unidentified relics arrived in Creusenac for the cathedral they were building. The sender of the relics (the story states that it was either from Saintes, Plaisance, or Nyon) marked the chest with “
expédit” (expedite) to ensure fast delivery. However, the recipients misidentified the relics as that of “Saint Expédit” and prayed for his intercession.
Historians generally dispute the popular legend, as a previous church to Saint Expeditus was recorded in 1172 to be located on the site of the current cathedral.
Clocks in the Cathedral of Creusenac: 14th century clock (left), 19th century clock (right)
Of more relevance is the patronage of Saint Expeditus to Creusenac, a city associated with clocks and clockmaking in Saintonge. The Cathedral of Creusenac has two astronomical clocks, one dating from the 14
th century, the other from the 19
th century, giving it its moniker
cathédrale des horloges (“cathedral of clocks”).
Vantes: Cathedral of Saint Judicaël and Saint Brendan
Vantes
Cathedral of Saint Judicaël and Saint Brendan
Cathédrale des Saint-Judicaël-et-Saint-Brendan de Vantes
The Cathedral of Vantes, capital of the province of the Domnonée, is dedicated to two saints of the Domnonée pantheon: Saint Judicaël, petty king of Domnonée; and Saint-Brendan, sailor-missionary from Domnonée.
This red cathedral is the seat of the archdiocese of Vantes since the 12
th century, and said to be “plain-looking” when compared to the cathedral of its suffragan diocese of Cantorbéry (see above). However, the wealth of the Cathedral of Vantes is on the inside: past its red stone portal lies a richly-decorated stone altar and reredos made of ivory and ebony, decorated with gold, silver, and gemstones.
Sailors of the Domnonée sought the intercession of the two saints for a safe voyage; then wealthy sailors then donated to the church or brought back votive offerings. These votive offerings, on display at the cathedral’s museum, range from the grand (golden statue of Saint Brendan), to the relevant (replica of a sailing ship in a large glass bottle), to the rare (a jar of ambergris), to the weird (a narwhal tusk).
The museum of the cathedral also has a section regarding Pope-King Thibault I of Saintonge, who served as Archbishop of Vantes from 1767 to 1772.
Villeurbanne: Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus
Villeurbanne
Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus
Basilique du Sacré-Cœur-de-Jésus de Villeurbanne
The second basilica in the Saintes metropolitan area, the Villeurbanne basilica is located on a hill at the border of the communes of Villeurbanne and Rethondes (department of the Cenise). It was meant to be the grand western terminus of the grand
Boulevard de Saintonge, which crosses the city of Saintes from east to west and passes by the great landmarks of the city such as Arch of Triumph, Liberty leading the People,
Place de la Révolution,
Jardin des Saints, Place de Saintes (where the Royal Palace and Cathedral of Saintes are located), and Saintes City Hall. When the diocese of Villeurbanne was created, the basilica became the episcopal seat.
The massive brick and concrete reinforced Neo-Gothic and Art Deco basilica was completed in 1969. Being situated on a hill and with a high cupola, visitors can see an excellent panoramic view of Saintes.
View of Saintes from the Basilica