[WV] Fragrance: Of Art and Transcendence

[Wonderess]

This thread is a part of the WondoVerse.​

Fragrance: Of Art and Transcendence
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Greetings! In this thread, I hope to share some musings on the beautiful world of fragrances. I will meditate on my daily wearing and perhaps provide more insights in the role of perfumery in the world of art and yes even in my own favorite territory of philosophy and theology.

Feel free to post questions or insights of your own!

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Wondo's Daily Wearing (3-4-21)

Bond No 9's Hamptons (2005)

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This is a new acquisition of mine. I seek in my fragrances some shard of its personality that matches some aspect of myself. Hamptons is a clean, cool, fresh sort of scent that leans more floral than purely citrus as a warm weather scent would usually do. It is market as unisex (wearable by both sexes). Bond No 9's central theme is to create a scent for every neighborhood of New York City. The Hamptons though not in the city itself is a collective name for the beach communities at the very end of Long Island. It has a history of being a vacation getaway for the rich and famous when they choose to leave their abodes in the city. It indeed has an oceanic vibe to it as the bottle also signifies. This is a clean smooth sort of water on the beach rather than a salty or tropical sort of bent.

It reveals in myself a very ordered and put together sort of aspect of my person. Being someone who prides myself on my more reserve and restraint, I gladly welcome a fragrance that can somehow capture that on the day's I want to double down on that part of my nature. It is a part of myself I often show the world and so Hamptons helps to express this truth through the nose. This is not a scent which overpowers everything around it. It is kind in its presentation and dances publicly only if others wish to watch. There is a beauty in that sort of deference which I can also relate to.

Wondo's Court Rating: I like to think of my fragrances as members of a royal court ranked according to their dearness to me and how well they represent that which I am. The rankings are at the top Emperor, then Viceroy, then Dean, Page, and then at the bottom subject. Hamptons is one I relate to greatly. I need more time to befriend it as I wear it more often, but I can certainly see myself becoming well acquainted with it. I will give it Viceroy status, but that will be assessed as time goes on. It is a beautiful daily companion, and its quiet, pleasant freshness is well received by me.

Official Notes: Lime Blossom, Bergamot, White Jasmine, Magnolia, Amber and Sandalwood

(Hamptons is often compared to Creed's Silver Mountain Water which came before it in 1995.)

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[Wonderess]

Wondo's Daily Wearing (3-5-21)

Creed's Millesime Imperial (1995)

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It didn't take me long to reveal my highest treasure of my fragrance collection which I am dawning today. This is my signature scent, my emperor, the fragrance that represent me in full. Millesime Imperial has been a companion of mine since high school when I would wear it in the halls and in the classrooms. This was a time when I had to be willing to stand up for the truth I was both seeking and in love with. It was a time when the Wondrous Orders were just written and being further defined. All this time MI has been my friend and trusty companion, and it has come to symbolize to me the most important things in life.

Millesime Imperial is a light citrus accord. It is often described as a salty watermelon in aroma, and I don't find that too far off. There is definitely some sort of salt note even though the note breakdown never mentions a direct salt. It is unlike other citruses in that it isn't a sharp citrus as you would describe the smell of orange juice or lemonade. It is a smooth creamy rendition of fruit that elegantly and masterfully unfolds to the joy of all around it. It's gentleness can also be a weakness in that its lasting power on the skin for many is abysmal being completely gone within 4 hours. As for me, I can still get a sniff from my wrist a good 8 to 12 hours later. Its sweetness is captivating, and it isn't a sort of sweet one would associate with female fragrances. It is more fresh and creamy than candy like. MI isn't the most powerful or daring, but in its elegance it captivates a privileged place in my collection as the scent which reflects all that I am.

Wondo's Court Rating: I have probably already given away that this is my Emperor of the collection. It is its honesty and joy that grant it this spot rather than its versatility or strength. I think any man or woman who takes this as their signature scent would be easy for me to befriend because surely there are things in life that we both seek and see, and that is what I look for most in fragrance. Who is the fragrance for, and what does it mean? MI means royalty and elegance through the subtle things, the hidden things. That's a sort of voice that I can't help but give my heart to.

Official Notes: Bergamot, Green Mandarin, Lemon / Iris / Sandalwood, Amber, Musk

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[Prydania]

There is definitely some sort of salt note even though the note breakdown never mentions a direct salt.

As someone who is not into fragrances...what is "salt" as a smell? I've never thought of "salt" as a fragrance. Everything else I understand, even as a layman. Sweet smells, citrus, watermelon, floral, all terms I would use to describe smells. Salt though...I'm unsure if salt would even have a smell I'd recognize as salt.

Is it akin to the smell of salt water? That sort of aroma one gets when at the beach? The smell of the ocean?

Sorry for the n00b question, but I just found that bit curious.

 

[Wonderess]

As someone who is not into fragrances...what is "salt" as a smell? I've never thought of "salt" as a fragrance. Everything else I understand, even as a layman. Sweet smells, citrus, watermelon, floral, all terms I would use to describe smells. Salt though...I'm unsure if salt would even have a smell I'd recognize as salt.

Is it akin to the smell of salt water? That sort of aroma one gets when at the beach? The smell of the ocean?

Sorry for the n00b question, but I just found that bit curious.

No, this is a perfectly valid and fair question. I think sea salt is a good way of describing it. It definitely smells like a spice but does not have a herbal or peppery quality you would associate with most spices. Millesime Imperial is also described as a "marine" fragrance which means it primarily evokes notes (parts of the fragrance smell and individual ingredients) that are reminiscent of the ocean.

 

[Wonderess]

Wondo's Daily Wearing (3-6-21)

Creed's Erolfa (1992) /
Testing and Getting Acquainted With a Fragrance

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Today I continue the Creed parade by wearing Erolfa. Now, I will say upfront that I do not currently own this fragrance but have a sample vial. A few weeks past I was touring the fragrance section of Saks Fifth Avenue where one get smell the current offering of major fragrance houses. I think now is as good a time as any to talk about getting to know a fragrance before committing to a full bottle. I think there are three definable patterns when it comes to acquiring a new fragrance. The first is the easiest but also the most risky which is Blind Buying. This is simply buying a full fragrance bottle without ever smelling it yourself. Perhaps you are relying on the reviews of others, perhaps it is a cheap scent and you think it's worth it, or perhaps you are just cray and blind buy something without any basis whatsoever. Regardless, I think it is safer to rely on the other two methods.

The second method is going to a fragrance outlet, smelling the fragrance there, and deciding to buy it. I think this is the most common form and for good reason. It's not as risky, the process is quick, and you get those pesky fragrance salesman off your back by buying something from them.

The third way is to obtain a sample of the fragrance either for free at the store or online for a small price. This way you can wear it out, see how it evolves throughout the day, and most importantly see its performance on your unique skin. Believe it or not since the skin chemistry of each person is different, the fragrance itself will unfold slightly differently on each person as it interacts with the natural oils of the skin. I find this third way most enjoyable and responsible. It's oddly similar to dating where you get to know the person more deeply before you decide to get engaged and so on, but the upside is that fragrance courting does not take months or years.

Ultimately, each fragrance will be a specific instance of how you go about buying it. There is no sure way since each circumstance has to be taken one at a time. Perhaps that bottle of Jean Paul Gautier's Le Male at Macy's is only on sale for that day and you have to buy it then. No one can judge you for getting dem deals.

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Now on to Erolfa. Each Creed fragrance has a unique theme and backstory to it. The current head of Creed is the perfumer Olivier Creed. Erolfa was inspired by a trip on the Mediterranean that his family took and it is the names of his family members which the fragrance takes its name from. ERwin (his son), OLivia (his daughter), and FAbian (his wife). Erolfa is older than Millesime Imperial but there is certainly some relation there. You will find that many houses have a signature scent dna to them that makes them distinct to the house. Erolfa is sea faring like MI, but there is an absence of salt. This sort of sweet is more sugary, but it is paired with a classic aftershave citrus smell which makes it decidedly unfeminine. It isn't melony like MI but more like a sweet flower on the ocean. I went out adn ate a poboy today, and it came and went as I went about and waited in the cashier line. It was a pleasant surprise each time. I am going to have to consider if its worth the money, butit is definitely a worthy and beautiful fragrance especially considering its age. There is actually a sense of fragrance in the fragrance market, and yes something can in fact smell dated. This is old fashioned but in a good way, and that added sweetness that comes mainly after that aftershave opening is splendid and makes Erolfa seem contemporary in my view.

Wondo's Court Rating: Erolfa is not a part of my collection so I can't possibly rank it among my gems.

Official Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Violet, Cumin, Basil, Rosemary, Melon / Cyclamen, Jasmine, Ginger, Coriander, Pepper / Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Moss, Amber, Musk

Since I don't own a bottle you won't get a fun picture of me today, but enjoy this Spongebob perfume department gif!

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[Marcus Antonius]

An interesting thread Wondo!

My personal experience of fragrance started as a teenager in the 1970's.

When I started shaving I would use my Fathers aftershave - you probably guessed it - Old Spice! (1937)

As I got older I would buy and be gifted Brut (1964), Hai Karate (1967), Blue Stratos (1976) and Denim (1982).

This continued up until the 2000's with a lot of unbranded aftershaves thrown in from chemists and supermarkets, whatever was available in the UK.

Most of the time I would smell of Jet fuel and hydraulic oil etc.

It wasn't until the 2010's that I started to receive or buy more expensive brands, I shall have to check my cabinet to see what I have.

 

[Wonderess]

Wondo's Daily Wearing (3-7-21)

Yves Saint Laurent's L'Homme (2006)

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This is a splendid gem that I use when I am looking for something that is versatile. It's good in all four seasons and can be a pleasant wear no matter what the occasion might be. It mixed well with the incense of this Sunday's High Mass and was a rightful back seater throughout breakfast. Fragrances are usually assigned a season based on the nature of the scent. Darker fragrances such as leather, dark tobaccos, seasonings, and oud are usually reserved for col weather because they can survive the cold brittle air while also being subdued by it making the scent palatable. On the other hand, light fragrances like citruses or lighter florals will get lost in the cold air and not really show up at all compared to summer where they sparkle in the heat and match the summer breeze as well with their lighter notes. Then there are fragrances that strive to be balanced enough to be used in any season or general occasion, and L'Homme (French for the man) is one of these.

L'Homme makes me think of Christmas festivity because it has this warm gingery character to it. It is completely unimposing, and is never too strong whether inside or outside. It's apple gingery smell is unmistakable and elicits a happy moo given its playful composition. To me it is what is known as a "dumb reach" which means a fragrance you put on without much thought because of how likable or versatile it is. I could pull it off at a wedding reception or riding 4 wheelers in the woods, and I think that is what makes it one of the best selling men's fragrances out there.

Wondo's Court Rating: L'Homme is a solid Dean. Its commonness makes it less of an emotional attachment of mine, but I cannot deny its usefulness or beauty as a fragrance. It has such a natural warmth and light to it which I can't really say about my more beloved fragrances. It is seen, it is loved, and because of that it always avoids being put into the corner of my collection of fragrances I never wear. I'm looking at you Polo Big Pony #3!!!!

Official Notes: Lemon Cedrat, Bergamot, Ginger / Violet, Basil, White Pepper / Sandalwood, Cedar, Vetiver, Toka Bean, Amber

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[Marcus Antonius]

Many years ago my wife, Cleopatra (Not her real name ), cleared out all of my cheap aftershaves/sprays.
She said that I needed a better range of scents. The first one she bought me was Joop!

Wolfgang JOOP's Joop! Homme (1989)

Fragrance Familly - Woody
Top Notes - Cinammon, Orange blossom
Heart Notes - Jasmine, Vanilla
Base Notes - Sandalwood, Vetiver

Marcus Antonius gets the Cleopatra treatment!​

 

[Wonderess]

@Marcus Antonius JOOP! is absolutely classic. I find it is held as a very important 20th century fragrance that helped usher in the modern market. JOOP is often used as an archetype by which newer fragrances may be compared.

 

[Wonderess]

Wondo's Daily Wearing (3-8-21)

By Killian's Bamboo Harmony (2012) / The Designer-Niche Distinction

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Today I decided on Bamboo Harmony. It is a very fresh and realistic tea fragrance that evokes themes of walking through east Asian fields filled with verdant tea plants as one sniffs their leaves. This green spicy sort of style is called an Aromatic. Today, Bamboo Harmony didn't seem to last very long on me. Maybe my nose just became used to it and stopped perceiving it ( a phenomenon known as olfactory fatigue.) Its beauty is that it cuts through everything else with its freshness and distinct smell. There are many tea fragrances out there, but I enjoy the high quality of BH's production as it smells like the real deal rather than a factory conglomeration trying to synthetically imitate the notes.

Now comes our discussion of fragrances that come from Niche houses versus Designer houses. Most fragrances marketed in malls are of the designer type. These are created by fashion houses who wish to have a fragrance repertoire along side their other fashion offerings. They are usually cheaper (as in around or under $100 for a standard bottle size of 100 milliliters) and use lab created notes rather than fresh genuine essences found in nature. This is what keeps the price point down, and sometimes the trained nose can smell the synthetics which usually identify a designer fragrance. Many of them also smell similar to one another because the point of a designer scent is to be mass appealing and thus where the popular trends go, so do the designer houses.

A Niche house on the other hand is a company whose soul existence is to create perfumes. The packaging as well as the quality of fragrance is usually noticeable both on the receipt and in the smell. These houses may not be as well known, but their dedication to a luxury and quality product means they can sell their product at a higher price point and still make a good living despite selling less units than the designers overall. Studying the niche lines is indeed both an investment in the art of perfumery and yes money. Niche fragrances are mostly found online, but high end outlets are also likely to carry certain niche brands such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Harrods.

There is also a smaller third category. Designer houses such as Tom Ford may create a branch of perfumery that is of higher quality and more expensive. This is the Tom Ford Private Blend collection. These sorts of designer created lines are considered niche because they share the quality and price point of other niche houses.

Designer House Examples: Chanel, Versace, Calvin Klein, Gucci, Coach, Zara, Paco Rabanne, Dior, Nautica

Niche House Examples: Creed, Bond No 9., Xerjoff, Aqua di Parma, Amouage, Montale, Guerlain (originally), Tom Ford Private Line, by Killian, Serge Lutens

Wondo's Court Rating: Bamboo Harmony is to me a Dean fragrance. It is undoubtedly high quality and represents a unique place in my collection. However, a deep relationship with it is lacking which means I can't say I would actively be amiss if I ran out. It takes me on a one of a kind journey, and for that I am thankful.

Official Notes: Bigarade, Mimosa, White Tea Leaves

 

[Yalkan]

You need front lighting for your pictures.

 

[Wonderess]

You need front lighting for your pictures.

Indeed. Where the ceiling lights are located all light is behind me except a lamp to my right. I may change up my tactics in the future when I move to more interpretive still images of the fragrance's character. For the time being, there is nothing to be done.

 

[Wonderess]

Wondo's Daily Wearing (3-9-21)

Creed's Aventus (2010) / The Story of a Game Changing Fragrance & My Basicness

I bring to you a fragrance that single handedly revolutionized the fragrance world at the beginning of the 2010s decade, a fragrance that cemented that fact that I am a basic boo. Olivier Creed searched for a fragrance to celebrate the apparent 250th anniversary of the Creed House's existence. (The history of Creed going back that far is not currently substantiated.) He decided on a scent that would be based on one of Europe's great historical leaders: Napoleon Bonaparte. He brought together notes representing parts of the French Empire to form a unified and celebratory scent. This included Blackcurrants of Corsica and Birch of Louisiana along with other notes to form Creed's Aventus. Little did Creed know the significance of this release. Soon after launch, the fragrance community began a series of reviews on Youtube, the fragrance database website of Fragrantica, and eventually the wider world. This "hype train" eventually made Aventus the top selling niche fragrance at the time. Its spillover into common culture helped Creed as a niche house to enter the mainstream making niche fragrances more widely known and accessible by the public. Aventus to this day remains a highly praised and widely received fragrance which many serious collectors have added to their collection despite its rising retail price. It currently goes for an outrageous $435 for 100 milliliters, and yet remains a top seller of the house.

This release helped make Creed THE entry level niche house of the fragrance world. Many who newly explore the niche realm of perfumes begin with Creed because of the higher quality but also pleasing fragrances that take little risks and remain widely pleasing to the world's noses. Time and time again I hear reviewers both men and women alike say "this is what a man is supposed to smell like." This is not a comment I can fully disagree with. It has an unmistakable smoky fruit vibe that is very masculine and pleasing. It is supported by what to me smells like an understated ginger background. This is once again a highly versatile scent which I can always call upon if I don't know what to wear that day because it is so pleasing and passable in most circumstances. Millesime Imperial is still my baby even in the face of the manly Aventus, but I can tell why men choose this as their wedding scent and call upon Aventus at the most important times of their lives.

Wondo's Court Rating: Aventus has been in my collection since 2016 when I made it my high school graduation present from my parents. (I certainly did not have them pay full price as there are discount websites where sane people buy niche fragrances for less than market value.) This is where I proclaim my basicness. So many people own Aventus by now, but I don't really care because it truly is a historic scent, and one worth having in any serious fragrance collection. It is high quality, it is handsome, and it is reliable which is why to name it anything under Viceroy would be sin in my eyes. I can only hope I get as iconic a scent modeled after me as Napoleon when I die.

Official Notes: Bergamot, Blackcurrant Leaves, Apple, Pineapple / Pink Berries, Birch, Patchouli, Jasmine / Musk, Oakmoss, Ambergris, Vanilla

 

[Wonderess]

Wondo's Daily Wearing (3-10-21)

Bond No. 9's New York Nights (2017) / My Ode to Celebration

This is one of the newest additions to my collection, and it is the embodiment of playful joy. It is what we call a "gourmand" which means it is pulling on foody notes in its smell. This one has a base of coffee and caramel which gives it a sweet and outgoing character throughout its entire life on the skin. I can't help but feel extraverted and playful while I wear New York Nights. It smells like a sweet banana's foster at first before becoming subdued and taking on the character of a rocking smores campfire party. It is definitely high energy which is fitting. Bond wanted to create a fragrance that emulated the glamor and magic of nights in New York City, and this definitely delivers. I guess it is properly a night scent, but I can't help but wear it all day.

Wondo's Court Rating: This is a no brainer Viceroy. It has a playful and vibrant personality unlike any other fragrance in my collection, and it physically alters my mood to something brighter than I normally might be. I even find myself being more talkative and socially engaging with it on. It is sweet and dare I say tasty (though one should never literally taste fragrances) while never being too much or headache inducing, and that can be a difficult feat when using darker gourmand notes. New York Nights will always have a home with me.

Official Notes: Jasmine, Gardenia, Carnation, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Marine Accord, Coffee, and Caramel

 

[Praetor]

I'm not sure how to feel about your facial expressions or body poses.

 

[Wonderess]

I'm not sure how to feel about your facial expressions or body poses.

Well a little secret about me is that I'm very awkward but also expressive making for a very interesting body language. I try with my images to somehow express the character of the fragrance based on how I'm holding it. For New York Nights I was going for a partier in the snap of the moment, perhaps laughing at a joke, perhaps realizing the next song of the dance playlist.

 

[Wonderess]

Wondo's Daily Wearing (3-11-21)

Dior's Dior Homme Cologne (2013) / The Parts of a Fragrance

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Things are starting to heat up down here in Louisiana, and so that means it's time to bring my brighter citrus fragrances out of hibernation as we get near to 70 Fahrenheit. One of my most capable citruses is this jewel, Dior Homme Cologne. I never feel shy spraying this one on liberally as its pleasant lightness is incapable of overpowering the nose. It opens like the freshest orange that one can imagine being stuffed into a cologne bottle and sparkles in the heat. It remains reliably citrusy all the way to its end when it disappears from the skin. Due to its simplistic beauty, I thought it the perfect time to go through the parts of a fragrance.

Perfume is very much like the composition of a song. It begins a certain way, carries on a certain way, and then ends yet another way. This change of the fragrance's life on the skin is accepted as the normal procession of a fragrance's life. Its beginning is called the opening which is meant to grab the smeller like the hook of a journalist's article. It is this part that most smell when they are looking to buy, and so there is a lot of pressure to impress. The opening is caused by what we call the top notes. These notes are identified first, but they also are more likely to die off first to move on to the middle and bottom notes. Citrus and lighter notes are placed up top so that they can grab the user before fading away due to their realtively short life on skin.

Next comes the dry down which is the fragrance's change away from the top to the middle and bottom notes. There are some fragrance collectors who may like a certain fragrance not for its opening but for its desirable dry down which lasts longer than the initially smell. This part sticks with the person for a few hours before the fragrance retreats to the skin itself. This at the end when one must touch their nose to the skin to pick up on the fragrance. By this point it is only the bottom notes remaining since they have the longest life. This will include heavier notes such as musk, woods, and oud.

There are also fragrances which we classify as linear. This means they change very little throughout their life. What you get at first spritz is what you get the entire time. Many of us enjoy the development of the fragrance throughout the day because it leads to new smells and one may even find themselves surprised with the results.

Dior Homme Cologne only has three notes which is these days abnormal. The top note is bergamot which is the citrus. The mid is grapefruit blossom which adds a floral core to support the fragrance's citrus top and keep it in place. Finally at the bottom is the often used musk which anchors the fragrance and keeps it going for more than a mere 30 minutes. I will say that this fragrance is not known for its longevity, and its simple note breakdown is probably greatly to blame.

Wondo's Court Rating: DHC gets a Dean rating from me. It is definitely a great fragrance, but it takes a lot of juice to keep it around and that can be cumbersome. It comes in a larger than 100 ml bottle which I guess is anticipating this problem, but I can't help but get mad at it too long given its bright and sweet nature. Everytime I put it on I tell myself it's time to shine bright because that is all this fragrance does.

Official Notes: Bergamot / Grapefruit Blossom / Musk

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I want to thank everyone who has been tagging along this fragrance journey with me this past week! Seeing the interest, I think I will very soon try and hold a TNPU Q and A session in Voice Chat. If you are interested, be thinking of some questions or topics and we can have a fun time! Thank you all again, and don't forget your daily dose of snorting a pineapple like little old me up here.

 

[Yalkan]

You need a consistent wardrobe for your reviews. It seems weird, but it actually helps keeps a sense of continuity with your image and your reviews.

 

[Wonderess]

You need a consistent wardrobe for your reviews. It seems weird, but it actually helps keeps a sense of continuity with your image and your reviews.

Are you suggesting that I wear the same thing in each one?

 

[Yalkan]

Are you suggesting that I wear the same thing in each one?

Maybe not the exact same thing, but definitely 1-3 same outfits.

 

[Praetor]

Maybe not the exact same thing, but definitely 1-3 same outfits.

I definitely share your concerns. Some consistency would be appreciated, however, it would not be reasonable to expect Wondo to wear the same shirt every day or to constantly be doing laundry. As such, I would like to suggest a simple solution that leaves all parties happy and minimizes the amount of work for Wondo: do it shirtless.

 

[Tim Kasto]

I definitely share your concerns. Some consistency would be appreciated, however, it would not be reasonable to expect Wondo to wear the same shirt every day or to constantly be doing laundry. As such, I would like to suggest a simple solution that leaves all parties happy and minimizes the amount of work for Wondo: do it shirtless.

This solution might work

 

[Wonderess]

Wondo's Daily Wearing (3-12-21)

Nautica's Voyage (2006)

I went with something more modest today. Voyage is in a word verdant and green despite its blue color and nautical name. It is no way sweet even though it has apple as a note. It is a musky leaf smell that is unsuspecting and not really exemplary in any way except for its price point. It can be found around for $20 which makes it a great value given what you get in the fragrance. It is definitely dependable and palatable and has great expectations for a fragrance of that price point. It goes to show that not every scent choice has to end up breaking the bank.

Wondo's Court Rating: Voyage is a Page in my collection. I don't mind wearing it, but I don't find myself excited to do so. It is best suited for less important outings such as shopping or walking the dog. We leave the higher points of life to the grander accords, but Voyage remains dependable and a worthy choice for the day to day grind.

Official Notes: Apple, Green Leaf / Lotus, Mimosa / Musk, Cedar, Oakmoss, Amber

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I've decided the Fragrance Q and A Saturday, March 13 at 9 PM Central Time. Join me in the Plaza VC for a fun and hopefully insightful time!

 

[Wonderess]

The Perfume and Fragrance Q and A session on behalf of the TNPU thread of the same subject will begin in about 50 minues in the Plaza VC. I hope to see yall there!

 

[Wonderess]

And now for something different

Inevitably, I will run out of fragrances in my collection to review, so seeing the great questions and conversation that was had at the VC Q and A, I will move in a direction that better promotes the artistry of fragrance craft. I will pair a scent of mine which I'm either wearing or in the mood to discuss with a song, and I will make an attempt to draw connections between both art forms to better express the character of the fragrance and also demonstrate the meaningful themes that can be discovery through the sense of smell.

Bond No. 9's Hamptons / Fleetwood Mac's Landslide

Hamptons has within it a icy metallic identity mixed with the smooth comforts of a floral base. It's gentleness is presentation is reminiscent of Stevie Nicks's gentle yet mystifying vocals as she reflects on her life and the changes it has brought her. Both use a similar analogy which is the snowy mountaintops met by the climber who escapes to the top of the world to reflect on everything that has met them in life. Fleetwood Mac gives us a gentle soft rock style to accompany the message in a similar way Hamptons uses fresh undertones to deliver its own message, the reflection which comes not with a glaring accord of pushy and loud notes, but the olfactive equivalent to a Nicks vocal, a smooth and even fragrance that in its quiet demeanor prompts some thinking as one faces the reflections of its snowed covered notes.

 

[Great Bights Mum]

I just got in Terre D'Hermes and Amouage Jubilation XXV. Since they are sealed in the box, I have no idea what they are like. Thoughts?

 

[Wonderess]

I just got in Terre D'Hermes and Amouage Jubilation XXV. Since they are sealed in the box, I have no idea what they are like. Thoughts?

I own Jubilation XXV, and it truly is a masterpiece. I will say that its strong incense and spice accords make it difficult to wear in warmer weather and really makes it useful for formal or ceremonial occasions. Definitely not an office scent, but totally worth being owned for those special times. I hear good things about Terre D'Hermes but have never smelled it myself.

 

[Wonderess]

Thierry Muegler's A*Men Pure Havane / Billy Joel's Piano Man

If Pure Havane as a name makes you think of Havana, Cuba and by relation the sweet tobacco of Cuban cigars then you guessed correctly. Angel Men often abbreviated A*Men is a collection of related fragrances each with a thematic accord whether its coffee, mint, orange, whiskey, or yes tobacco. I pondered what song I knew that I could relate to the atmosphere of cigar smoker and Billy Joel's Piano Man came quickly to mind. The riffs of piano along with the character sketches Joel provides in the song are very real for a bar in Anytown, America. People congregate to be entertained and have some fun, most especially when their life is lackluster or falling apart. The sweet and enticing tobacco notes joined by vanilla and honey notes also sing of that hope, forgetting life to take stock of the momentary pleasantries.

Picture it, you sit at a town bar with no windows and low ambient lighting. The piano goes and you can just barely make out the shape of the tip bar on the piano through the cigar smoke which fills the room. There is no virus and every table is filled with people from all walks doing what they can to take hold of this night. No one is left alone with their thoughts so long as the companions of blues and beer are around. The moment is vivid and all encompassing. The escape has come, but only for a moment. As the notes of Pure Havane die down on the skin and become just barely noticeable so too does the late night end as the piano winds down with its last song. We've hit the 2 AM mark, and the last of the regulars stumble out the door back to the lives they knew before this night began. As the bartender wipes down his bar you know the time has come for you to do the same. The scent is gone now and all that is left is the mere memory of sweet bliss. The thrill is gone for sure, but still remembered. Tomorrow is now coming.

 

[Wonderess]

Maison Francis Kurkdjian's Baccarat Rouge 540 / The Church's Ritual and Hymns of Eucharistic Benediction

Today I reflect on a newer fragrance of mine which is rather unique. It has a sweet but soft and airy quality which delights the wearer and those who happen to be close by. Baccarat Rouge 540 is elegant and understated in its character. Within it are notes of amber, cedar, ambergris, saffron, and jasmine which blend together to create a single sweetness which honestly escapes all description. Baccarat Rouge was the first of its kind, and now many fragrances in the market have tried to imitate its style and scent, but it remains the original voice. There is warmth in its center along with a creamy powdered base.

It makes me think of one of the joys in the Catholic tradition which is the Benediction of the Holy Eucharist. It somehow fits in the with the joys of reverence and the pondering of God that occurs in the quiet space of person and the Euacharist sitting before them. Particularly comes the chanted prayer in between the latin chants before the Eucharist:

"Panem de caelo praestitisti eis." (You have given them bread from heaven.)
"Omne delectamentum in se habentem." (Having within it all sweetness.)

It is this sweetness of eternal things which Baccarat Rouge reminds me and so I see it as that scent of the greatest hoys in life when it is proper to shine not garishly or loudly but in the gentle call of soft and sweet aroma. This calm and wise joy is somehow captured by Baccurat Rouge and so I can see myself wearing it at future benedictions and those greatest times when the greatest things are celebrated.​

 

[Wonderess]

Bond No. 9's New York Nights / Spongebob's The Campfire Song Song

I've spoken about this fragrance before. It's caramel and coffee base gives it a smores like quality which makes one think of a campfire. It isn't a quiet scene though. I can imagine a dance party happening around the fire with dance lights and a crowd of people partying it up. The Campfire Song Song from Spongebob has that fun loving quality which I associate with New York Nights. It is truly a playful and youthful composition fit for men and women alike, and you can be assured that if I ever go camping, it's coming with me.

 

[Great Bights Mum]

The only scent you should wear camping is Deep Woods Off.
I just ran across a perfume called Horse. Horse! Notes of leather, hay and oats. Wondering if it draws flies.

 

[Marcus Antonius]

The only scent you should wear camping is Deep Woods Off.
I just ran across a perfume called Horse. Horse! Notes of leather, hay and oats. Wondering if it draws flies.

I use Jungle Formula.

My late father used to use an aftershave called Tabac.

It smelt like a morning after clubbing.

Isn't that the guy who used to play Jason King?

 

[Prydania]

I use Jungle Formula.

I'm an Irish Spring man myself.

 

[Yalkan]

I'm an Irish Spring man myself.

A man of Culture.

 

[Wonderess]

The Holy Week Lineup​

It's that most solemn time of year which means it's time to match some of my fragrances to the liturgical day as we now come to taste the joys of Easter.

Palm Sunday

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First up is Palm Sunday which recalls the entry of Jesus into Jerusalem before his passion and death. The people laid down palms before him as he rode in on a donkey and so my choice has green notes to call to mind this act of homage his followers took part in. Bond No. 9's Chez Bond has a mixture of tea and green notes which gives it a sophisticated take on a leafy fragrance.

Holy Thursday & Good Friday

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The beginning of the Sacred Triduum turns more solemn as we approach the betrayal of Judas and the eventual death of Our Lord. For these two days I chose my most liturgical selection which has literal frankincense and myrrh as notes along with a subtle blackberry which lightens it up a bit than most incense fragrances. Its earthy undertones with an added spice match the incense and somber tones of the Good Friday Office as well as the celebration of the Eucharist's institution on Holy Thursday.

Easter Vigil

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Finally, dawn breaks and the destruction of Christ over death is complete. Only the brightest and most joyous scent will do, and that is where Maison Francis Kurkdjian's Baccarat Rouge 540 comes in. It is smooth and sweet up top and becomes a resinous, nutty, minty, airy scent which I can only describe as heavenly. I could think of no other fragrance that can embody the regality of Easter Vigil or the happiness of the Resurrection than this luminous scent.

 

[Wonderess]

The Frag(erson) Update
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It's been a while since I've thrown yall some bones of content so I thought it would a good time to update yall on some pickups and explorations of mine. Xerjoff, Kurkdjian, and Tom Ford oh my!

40 Knots by Xerjoff

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So I decided I wanted to explore the Italian fragrance house of Xerjoff which has quite a hold in the online fragrance world (often called FRAG COM for fragrance community but that "community" word can be so overused these days.) They are headquartered in Milan and are known for their beautiful presentation and quality blended scents. Each bottle has that pointy cap you see above to invoke the ancient crown of the pharaohs since Milan is the city with the most Egyptian artifacts outside of Egypt itself.

Xerjoff procures many collections. I started with the Join the Club collection which has fragrances which represent various fictitious clubs. The fragrance Commandante for instance represents a tobacco smoking club while Ivory Route represents a travel club. The one I purchased after sampling it is 40 Knots, the aroma of the yacht club. It is quintessentially Xerjoff's take on a marine fragrance and I am very impressed. usually oceanic scents are citrusy and bright which makes them mostly summer or warm weather wears but 40 Knots breaks that mold a bit. There is still that salty DNA that Millesime Imperial sports, but it is anchored by something richer than your basic citruses. This is woody notes which is listed as mainly Cedar. If you think of the theme it makes sense. On a great sailing vessel, one gets the salt of the sea spray but also the aroma of the wooden railings and mast of the vessel. This woody accent if not base of the fragrance makes it good for all year in my view. I would actually be reluctant to wear it in too warm a weather given how deep and strong it is. It also has impeccable longevity which I am starting to see all Xerjoffs have. It will last all day and even beyond 24 hours on skin.

I have some weird memory already attached to it that I can't fully recall. Sniffing it makes me think of a specific man but I fail to remember who. It's a weird sensation because I must have worn it while talking to this person, but hopefully my recall will give me a clear story as I continue to wear it.

Erba Pura by Xerjoff

Another Xerjoff I tested and then later acquired is Erba Pura which means fresh grass in Italian. Just so you know, it smell NOTHING like grass or even fresh in that green planty way. It is a spear of fruits. Usually fruits are bright and fresh, but this is certainly not the case once again. It is a continuous onslaught of strong general fruitiness backed by almost a sour note that I can't place. Maybe it's the musk. This stuff is near hazardous in the sense that it does not disappear if sprayed. If I did not wash my skin, it would literally remain there for days. I have already suffered one headache after I sprayed it on my wrists which were to accessible to my nose so I know for the future to spray it on my neck and only 2 sprays is more than enough unless I'm out to murder those in near proximity. I do enjoy its unique fruity vibe and even that underlying sourness, but I got to keep her tame when I let Erba out.​

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Renaissance by Xerjoff (THE RECKONING)

My third Xerjoff was a blind buy, and there lies my error. Renaissance is part of Xerjoff's 1861 collection which celebrates the 150th anniversary of the modern Italian state. Renaissance was described to me as a fresh citrusy fragrance that was an easy niche to blind buy. Boy was I Bobo the clown after purchasing it. It is green and fresh but in a very tiring and complex sort of way. I did not hate it, but I also would never enjoy wearing it and so my terrible mistake was realized. I ended up selling it off at a significant loss from what I paid but it was better to get some money back. I hope my bottle has a happy new home with someone who can truly appreciate it. I learned my lesson when it comes to bling buying such a high end fragrance. No green herbal freshies for me.
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Aqua Celestia Forte by Maison Francis Kurkdjian​

So after my recent loss I wanted a win, something to join my collection that I fully loved and could wear easily. Thus came Aqua Celestia Forte. I had a sample of normal Aqua Celestia and had smelled the Forte version briefly in store, but I remember liking Forte more so I went ahead and made the purchase. I have also been watching the new Twilight Zone and so it is associated with the mystery and wonder of that world of contemplation about modern issues of the human condition. It is a bright citrus with a sweet minty undertone and reminds me of recently shampooed hair, but in a good way. It has many notes which Renaissance has, but it is a brighter and more pleasant composition for sure. Too bad it wasn't my first choice all along.
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Lost Cherry by Tom Ford

So my semester just ended, which means it's time to celebrate the occasion! I've heard about Lost Cherry in how it is a delicious cherry and booze composition which is a theme I can get behind. I went to Dillards to at least smell it so I can decide to purchase or not. It is a sweet and delectable cherry scent indeed. The issue is that Tom here wants 350 dollars for 50 mills which is quite the ask. I was lucky enough to find 100 mills for 275 on Mercari. I just hope that it isn't a fake as it hasn't arrived yet. If it is real then this is an excellent deal. You get double the mills for less than the market price.

Never buy your fragrances from retail stores, folks. You are overpaying when there are other safe avenues to get the scents you love. If you are ever looking to get a good deal, feel free to reach out and I can point you to some trusted outlets that we in the fragrance realm know. I'm excited to add Lost Cherry to my collection. If you were wondering, yes, the name is suggestive, but I try hard not to think of the nasty mind Tom Ford has and instead enjoy the artistry of the fragrance if the name isn't too bad. He has one with the actual F word in it which is eyerollingly trend chasing, but so it goes. More adventures to come!​

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[Wonderess]

I thought I would give an update on an absolute W. Lost Cherry as mentioned above finally came in, and I was scared to death that it was going to be a fake or counterfeit. (Yes they exist, in quite a large number I might add.) I studied the bottle and the fragrance itself and it is legit!!!

A 100 ML bottle retails at all sellers at the Tom Ford website for an insane $475. I was able to get one at $275 which is still less than the market price of the 50 ML version which is $350. The gamble paid off folks . . . this time.

 

[Arc]

Never been into perfume. I personally prefer deodorant. Old Spice: Oasis (with Vanilla Notes) is certainly a beloved favorite of mine.

 

[Tim Kasto]

I never use deodorant maybe I should start?

 

[Wonderess]

I forgot about this thread of mine. Lately I have traded my fragrance buying for yugioh card buying but still deeply appreciate my bottles. I personally go for deodorant and traditional perfume since one can tell the difference in their scent. There is something about deodorant that an almost masking quality to it. You can tell that its there to mask natural body odor. Fragrance on the other hand tends to present all on its own without any "masking" quality.